Gruene, Texas---John Travolta wore a winged costume and
starred in a non-traditional depiction of an angel in the 1996 movie “Michael”. In one part he danced to the song Chain of Fools
across a bar with an old wooden floor. This is Gruene Hall, Texas’s oldest continually
run dancehall, in Gruene, Texas (pronounced “Green”) about 40 miles south of
Austin. A day trip Sheila and I decided to take and figure out why people
referred to it as a destination in Texas.
Arriving in Texas in the mid 1840s, German farmers became
the first settlers of what is now known as Gruene, Texas. Ernst Gruene, a
German immigrant, and his wife and two sons purchased this land and built the
first house and planted cotton. It became the number one cash crop and the
cotton business soon brought more families. As the town continued to prosper,
the Gruene family built the core buildings of the town including the dance hall.
Downfall came in 1922 when the original cotton gin burned and was replaced by a
modern electric model in a nearby town. The economic disasters of the boll
weevil to the cotton crops and the Depression were too much for the Gruene
family businesses and they went under, except for Gruene Hall, which never
closed.
This dance hall was built in 1948 and was where a young baby
faced George Strait was first discovered. It was the birthplace to many great
songwriters and musicians. Including Lyle
Lovett, The Fabulous Thunderbirds and Hal Ketchum to name a few.
It has hosted Bo Diddley, The Dixie Chicks, Jerry Lee Lewis,
Garth Brooks and Willie Nelson on its stage.
We missed seeing the (Kevin) Bacon Brothers play there last
week.
It was mid-afternoon on a Thursday and the dance floor was
occupied by two-stepping couples dancing to the second band of the day! The
place is old. I mean really, really old. License plates were used to patch up
the wooden floor in spots around the perimeter. Looking up into the ceiling-less rafters, you
could see layers, no…mounds of dust collected from the past hundred years I
think. It all added to the character.
We were told that the “must visit” restaurant in town was Gristmill
River Restaurant and Bar. Situated on a bluff overlooking the Guadalupe River,
this in-door/out-door restaurant nestled under the shade of age old oak trees
was originally a cotton gin powered by the river. Note: the signature Jack
Daniels Chocolate Chip Pecan Pie WAS totally worth sharing an entrée.
The old county store sat vacant for years until the entire
town was brought back to life in the 1970’s and stepping through the doors is a
step back in time. A full salsa tasting station and a bunch of funny Texas
themed items could be purchased. I just ate my way through the salsa, tried on
some cowboy hats and took a few photos.
Shops occupied old houses and more outdoor country music was
played under trees at another restaurant. The entire town could have been a
movie set for sure. I tried to think of it has it had happened, a place where movie
stars and music legends walked.
I do understand the charm of this destination. A little town
with a big history.
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Bacon bandaids, soap, wallet and gum |
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HILLBILLY BRIEFCASE |
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The General Store |
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